09.28.09
Playing tourist at Alcatraz
My in-laws are visiting from Australia for a few weeks. They’ve spent the past week in San Francisco with us and they are off to New York tomorrow. When they return, we may do some travelling with them on the West Coast but that is yet to be decided. My father-in-law is spending his 70th birthday here and we have booked to have dinner at a fancy restaurant in San Francisco, which should be fun.
Having guests from out of town was the perfect excuse to do some tourist stuff that we hadn’t got around to yet. Alcatraz was high on the agenda. For me, it was just a matter of ticking it off the list and I didn’t have great hopes for it being particularly interesting. Who cared which cell was Al Capone’s? I was pleasantly surprised!
We had a gloriously sunny day, with temperatures in the mid to high 20s (celcius). Hubby and I took the trails around the island, while his parents rode the courtesy train up the hill to the prison block.
I found the extent of the decay fascinating. The prison was abandoned in 1962 and, although the cell block itself is in good condition, virtually every other building on the island was a ruin. Everything seemed to have concrete cancer and many of the buildings were shells with no rooves or windows. Past the parade ground, which is now a nesting site for gulls, there were piles of demolished concrete and steel that was rapidly being buried with plant growth.
Hubby and I took a quick detour along the Agave Trail from the parade ground down to the waterfront. Agave is the plant that they make tequila from – it’s commonly described as a cactus but apparently it’s actually related to lily and amaryllis. We had stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge and back to San Francisco.
After we had finished exploring the island, hubby and I returned to the cell block for the audio tour. We started downstairs with the shower block and then started the tour upstairs where the cells were. Audio tours are often mediocre but this was awesome – the thing that really marked it apart was that it used extracts from interviews with real prison guards and former prisoners. I actually cried when I heard a prisoner and his sister describing how she had been told as a child that her brother was dead, found out as an adult that this wasn’t true, and came to visit him.
The cells were tiny, consisting of a narrow bed, a toilet and sink. Some of them had personal effects in them, like musical instruments, paintings or library books. We also saw the isolation cells where the most recalcitrant prisoners were held in solitary confinement. And yes, we saw Al Capone’s cell – interesting not because the cell was distinctive but because he was held in the ‘hard core’ area, not the general cells. The tour told us all about the various escape attempts and the near riot in the dining hall when spaghetti was served again.
Alcatraz started life as a military fortification, then became a prison. It’s been empty since 1962 but was “reclaimed” by native American land rights campaigners several times. It’s currently a national park.
Many people who live in San Francisco have never been to Alcatraz, dismissing it as a tourist trap. I think they are missing out.
I’ll post photos up when I’ve got them.
